I have been making apple butter since I was 9. It is an annual weekend event that brings together family and friends. It is the best combination of fun and work imaginable. The whole affair begins on a Saturday with the peeling, quartering and coring of 20 bushels of apples. This is a time to sit down, pick up a paring knife, work and chat. With some of our far-flung friends, this is the only time we see each other all year. With 20 bushels to prepare, it usually takes about 4 hours, which is a fabulous amount of time to catch up on everyone’s lives. With all the apples ready to go, we move on to the big Saturday night feast. All the little ones, now exhausted from playing, are fed in the house and the adults sit down by the barn for a cozy, candle lit dinner hot off the grill.
Sunday morning starts very, very early for a handful of the men. It’s 3:00 a.m. when they get outside and it is cold, but they get up and start a fire under a 30 gallon copper kettle. With a fine bourbon or two to fortify them, bushel after bushel of mashed apples are slowly added into the kettle. (A few years back my dad had the great idea of running the prepared apples through an apple cider press before they went into the kettle. This simple step speeds up the cooking process immensely.) To keep the apple butter from sticking to the pot, a 10-foot long, wooden stirrer is used to continually scrape the kettle’s bottom. There a wonderful rhythm to the way one walks around the pot stirring it. We call it the apple butter dance.
When the sun comes up, breakfast is served. Actually, there are so many people, that breakfast is served in two shifts. At about this time, the last bushel of apples goes in the pot. After breakfast, the cider press is called back into action and 15 bushels of cider apples are pressed. For the next 5 hours, we sit back watch as our family and friends take turns stirring the apple butter, drink cider and chat.
There’s a moment when the apple butter is just the right thickness and that is when 90 lbs of sugar is added. Yes, 90lbs, and believe it or not, we have even cut back on the sugar to let more of the apple flavor come through. After another hour of stirring, spices go in and then we’re ready to start canning.
The canning process is another great part of the weekend. Year after year, people have had the same jobs, some pour apple butter, others clean the rim of the jars, other tighten the lids, but all in all, it takes 20 of us to get the apple butter from the kettle into the pint jars. And then, when the kettle is empty, out come the gingersnaps and the fresh batch of apple butter is tasted.
As you can tell, it is quite a process. This year we made 23 cases of apple butter and 28 gallons of cider, but like any event, it is about so much more than just what you do, it is about the people you share the moment with.
All across the country there are apple festivals, farmers markets and roadside stands where apple butter is made and sold. I hope you will find an outing near you and bring home a bit of apple butter to share with your family and friends.






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